Liberia Report to FPC Malvern: 3.18.07

Click here to hear Dr. Allison, Paulcy Cange, and me give reports on our trip.
These reports were given to the Free Presbyterian Church of Malvern congregation on Sunday, March 18, 2007. The above photograph is Dr. Mark Allison speaking.

This is my wife and I. We were both given traditional Liberian clothing as gifts from the Mission Church and we wore them to the Sunday evening service on March 18, 2007. We are standing in front of one of the Crusade banners that advertised our crusades while we were in Liberia.

Back in the US: 3.15.07

Thursday 3/15
(10pm)

I thought yesterday, my last day in Liberia, would be the last day of my journaling, but today was far too eventful to leave to my own infamously fallible memory. We flew overnight from Monrovia to Brussels without incident (or sleep, in my case). Our baggage arrived intact, and we waited about 30 minutes for LouLou Cange to show up with Paulcy’s Green Card (he had it airmailed from the States after he realized our first day that he had forgotten it). We all checked in for our flights home, and with a couple hours until takeoff, LouLou joined us for a delicious breakfast of pastries, coffee and hot chocolate at a café overlooking the main terminal. After eating, we enjoyed some shopping in the duty-free shops. Paulcy advised my purchase of fine Belgian chocolates for Linds, and I made a futile search for any American sports magazine that would have published the NCAA tournament bracket. Dr. Allison and I went through security thinking Paulcy and George were close behind – we were wrong and they were buying more chocolate. When they finally got through security and we started down the interminable corridor to our gate, we had only 10 minutes to takeoff. For the first time in my life, I had the privilege of hearing my name (along with Paulcy’s and Dr. Allison’s) broadcast over the PA system of an international airport, as our flight crew made its final boarding call. We Americans said a hurried “farewell” to George McConnell at his gate, and then sprinted to ours just as they were about to close up – we made it, barely.

Brussells to JFK seemed much longer in the daytime, especially since the audio/visual entertainment equipment never started working in coach class the entire trip. Whether it was jet lag, anxiety about seeing my family, or some other cause, I was again unable to sleep on the flight. We finally touched down in cold, blustery, New York, tired but on time, and happily called our spouses to inform them of our safe arrival.

Customs, from my perspective, was long and hectic, but Paulcy assured me that our experience was a comparative piece of cake – nothing was confiscated, no duties had to be paid, and the whole shebang actually ate up only about a half-hour of our expected four-hour layover.

With so much time to kill, and having just heard from Linds that our flight was still listed as normal, we decided to wait to find our gate until we had some lunch. As we passed the food court, greasy, fatty, cheesy BK Whoppers called to all three of us like mythical sirens, and we readily succumbed. After finishing my burger, I again went in search of a tournament bracket, conscientiously avoiding any TVs that would have shown scores to me prior to my filling one out. Dr. Allison actually found the March Madness issue of SI before I did, and graciously gave it to me. I picked my teams, and then went looking for our flight info.

What I saw on the flight board made me forget about my Final Four picks: every Delta flight to an east coast city, including our hop to Philly, was cancelled. In disbelief, I booked it back to my companions and the three of us returned to stare incredulously at the board – they were really all cancelled. Now disgusted that we had waited so long to check, we trucked to the other end of JFK to the already chaotic Delta counter. After twenty minutes in line, a haggard young Delta person explained in robotic fashion that an impending storm that might possibly start late in the evening was the cause of cancellation. With a predicted snowstorm to arrive on Friday, she could give us no guarantees that we would catch a flight sooner than Saturday, and since the claimed cause was weather, she continued, Delta owed us nothing but a one-way ticket from JFK to PHL sometime over the next year. We were stuck.

Since NYC is only a couple-hour drive to Philly, we chose to try to pick up our luggage and just rent a car to drive home. Unfortunately, the surly Delta baggage claim person downstairs insisted that finding our bags would be too difficult and sent us on our way with a phone number to call to have our baggage delivered – no signed paperwork, no claim checks, just a toll-free number. Trusting his expertise in the field, we took a train to the car rental area, where National had one full-size car remaining, at a price post-Katrina price-gougers would have admired. Fed up with the hassle, Dr. Allison paid it, we threw our carry-ons in the back and drove away.

Forty-five minutes into 5:00 rush-hour traffic, Paulcy finally connected to an Indian ESL student at the other end of the Delta 1-800 number we had been given. Astoundingly, he and his supervisor (after thirty minutes of hold time) both confirmed that some village was indeed missing its idiot – the Delta baggage guy had not only failed to locate our bags as he should have, but he also neglected to have us fill out the absolutely necessary baggage claim forms, without which, no business could be done over the phone. Paulcy about hit the roof when his new Indian friend advised that we return to JFK for said paperwork. He refused, hung up, and we resigned ourselves to the possibility that, unless the Philadelphia airport could help us the next day, we would likely never see our bags again.

Smiles returned when we reached Paulcy’s house and his family rushed out to greet us. Dr. Allison and I continued down the Turnpike, and about the same time I should have arrived home from the airport after our flight, he dropped me off at our condo with the promise to meet me the next day for a baggage-finding mission to PHL. With those plans set, I ran up the stairs through the apparently menacing, flight-cancelling drizzle to kiss my wife and boys for the first time in nearly three weeks – five minutes later, lost luggage was the last thing on my happy mind.

(Note: A real snow storm hit Friday, but clogged roads and cranky, delayed PHL passengers couldn’t stop Dr. Allison and me from obtaining the proper forms at the Delta office to have our bags delivered in the iffy event that they actually made it from NY. Late Saturday evening, our bags were all finally delivered in widely varied condition to our homes. And that officially ends the record of this immensely memorable trip)

These are the "Welcome Home Daddy" signs that the boys helped Mommy make. They were hanging on the bedroom doors when I arrived home.

3.14.07

Wednesday 3/14
(6:45pm)

It’s over. I’m still standing on Liberian soil, but that soil is covered by the dilapidated concrete of Roberts International Airport outside the city. Standing outside, and at least three security checkpoints away, are a vanload of Liberian brothers and sisters in Christ, some of them born into God’s family only days ago. Those believers, once faceless names to me, embody the burden in my heart that continues to intensify. They made this trip and this day very special.

The morning fittingly began with our “favorite” breakfast: cold egg and onion patties. We left just after 9am for the Bookstore opening. The construction crew was still working hard as we arrived and we let them stop so we could gather the crowd of 20-30 people for the official ribbon cutting. Dr. Allison read from I Timothy and gave a brief challenge, prayed God’s blessing on the endeavor, and posed for pictures and video coverage of the ceremonial cutting of the decorated,woven paper towels stretched like a ribbon between the door frames. He introduced Evangelist Jones as the local man in charge and proceeded to make the first purchase, a leather-bound Thompson Chain Reference Bible for Pastor Kowah – Kowah frequently smiles, but rarely that wide! Jones invited the crowd in and all those Liberians – most of whom had never seen, let alone owned, a good piece of Christian literature – held such works in their hands for the first time. Several made purchases as George and I distributed Bibles to those with whom we had counseled. (I bought a hard-bound pocket Bible for Forkpa for $300 LD / $5 US). After Dr. Allison, George McConnell, and some of the local pastors gave statements to Kelvin (one of the reporters who was saved the second night of the crusade) Paulcy left to handle a business meeting while Dr. Allison, George and I drove back to the EGH.

We enjoyed a great lunch of BBQ chicken and chocolate cake. Lots of packing still had to be done, so we all retired to our rooms for that task. I finished well before we had to leave, so I showered and gathered excess, non-packed items to give away (a bagful to Kowah, a shirt to Mike Miller, and my too-small-to-possibly-be-comfortable hat to Mike the gatekeeper.) Then, for the first time in two weeks, I just relaxed – watched Manchester United’s 50th Anniversary game along with Rufus, Kowah and Moses (Manchester United 4, Euro All-Stars 3).

Once Paulcy arrived and finished packing, we all loaded our luggage and ourselves in to the van for one last hair-raising, white-knuckle ride. A van chartered for about 20-30 church folks followed us and we drove past giant termite hills, shack communities, and the Firestone Rubber Plantation on our way to Roberts International.

When we arrived, I held back tears as I said goodbyes and exchanged Liberian handshakes one last time. The people sang, “See Where He Took Me From” while we filed through the check-in door, and that was the last time I saw or heard them.

We marched through the most haphazard security process I’ve ever experienced, with one guard following us and whispering instructions into Dr. Allison’s ear. Miraculously our guard ensured that none of our bags were subject to a thorough (and apparently costly) search. At the end of the line, $20 changed hands and we checked in without incident.

Carry-on security was next, but the only item lost was one of my Listerine sprays, which I gave to the curious security official – he tried and enjoyed it on the spot.

For about an hour now we’ve been sitting in an air-conditioned but crowded and therefore increasingly fragrant waiting area. The Airbus A330 just roared in and I think all passengers are off. We should be boarding shortly. As much as I miss my Liberian friends already, I can’t wait for a trip to begin that I know will end with a reunion with my wife and sons!

3.13.07

Tuesday 3/13
(12 midnight)

Two weeks ago, today’s date seemed an eternity away. Now looking back, the trip seems to have begun only yesterday. Today was a nice ending to this trip. We enjoyed a leisurely morning until Paulcy, Dr. Allison, Kowah, and I rode downtown (George left for the bookstore early). We nearly broke our remarkable safe driving streak when a man walked right out in front of us as we were coming to a curve. We all screamed, the brakes screeched, and the van halted at his exact location. He would have been killed had he not stepped back just far enough to push off the front side of the bumper to safety.

In Monrovia, we trekked to the main market place and browsed shops peddling everything from jerseys to poached furs to traditional Liberian garb. I found a pair of hand-carved ebony hippos and bought a pair of hand-crafted leather sandals for Linds – they were a whopping $4 US! We thought we had lost Paulcy at one point, but he finally spotted us, having run off to buy a Bayern-Munchen jersey for his son. We proceeded to the SN Brussel’s downtown office and confirmed our flight and seats. We then moseyed around until our van finally found us. I find Monrovia fascinating with its melding of modern architecture with war-torn third-world culture. The war left such a heartbreaking aftermath – a prime example was the 30-year old, friendly man who struck up conversation with Paulcy. His arms ended at his elbows, hacked off during the war for no greater reason than his tribal identity. I will never forget watching him rub those two stumps together, begging us for aid. Such faces and stories confront us every time we turn around. There were times today, as in so many other days, when the sweat running down my face was the only disguise for my silent, helpless tears. I’ve told Linds very little so far of these encounters. I feel inadequate and unworthy to describe them when I can do so little to help.

We escaped the heat of high noon (it finally warmed up enough for Kowah to discard the parka he had worn all morning – 80 degrees was “too cold”) and went back to the EGH for lunch. We had tried to pick up the BCO copies promised us the night before, but they weren’t done yet – printer problems.

We left at 2pm to check out the bookstore’s progress and then picked up Pastor Sackie Mulbah at church so he could navigate us to his church. Having safely traversed some of the most treacherous, cratered, rutted roads I’ve ever had the privilege to rattle over, we arrived at the beautiful, open-walled building of Eternal Love Harvest Ministries. Sackie’s people were waiting for us and we shared some great fellowship with them and a moving service as we all gave thanks to God for our part in building their new roof. After some really funny photo ops with the kids, we piled back in the van and headed back. We took a final look for today at the store, which looks great, and started back home.
On the way, we followed a small pickup loaded down with 10-12 feet of cargo precariously swaying above the cab. On top of the load, Dr. Allison spotted a very playful, leashed monkey. We followed the monkey truck until we reached the soccer fields and noticed the amputee team actually playing. Paulcy and I jumped out and shot video and stills for at least 15 minutes. Our final stop before home was the Internet Café, which was still working on our copies – they promised them by 6:30pm.

We all relaxed for a while at the EGH until Dr. Allison and I chose to go restock a few grocery items and marched to the Café to get the copies. Surprise! – they weren’t done yet, but would “absolutely be all done” by 8:30pm. So we trudged back and thankfully had a nice pita and beef dinner to cheer us up.

After dinner, to which we had invited Mike Miller (new convert from our meetings), Mike, George, Paulcy and I walked back through the dark streets and finally picked up the copies. When we returned, I panicked for about 10 minutes thinking my wallet was stolen (false alarm), and then finished most of my packing. I also got to talk to Linds twice, though briefly – can’t wait to embrace her and my weens. Well, I’ve showered (in my crocs, since one of the glass window panes fell and shattered all over my shower earlier) and am ready to catch some Liberian Z’s for the last time this trip. Goodnight.

3.12.07

Monday 3/12
(11:45pm)

The trip may be wrapping up, but the schedule isn’t letting up – another fun, crazy day!
This morning, our first stop was the bookstore, where all the book boxes have been moved, all the shelves have been installed, and the porch/roof project is now well underway. From there, we picked up Moses, Stephen Bryant and Isaac Matadi (Kowah and his wife were already with us). We drove the cramped van through the enormous crowds at the Red Light Market and eventually followed very rough dirt roads back to George Bohlen’s church. It is a great building, and their new roof, a gift from us last year, has been a huge help to them. The service was brief, but energetic to say the least, especially the children’s choir, women’s choir and “founding mother’s” closing prayer. It’s a vibrant church that I hope will soon be able to join the FPC.

We left Faith Healing Temple and drove in squished discomfort to Gardnerville where Henry Monger’s church and K-6th Christian School have already taken the FPMC name. It’s another vibrant, growing work with people who love our doctrine and standards, and a booming school program with 225 students. The actual purpose for our visit was to kick off a new School Endowment Fund to help more kids attend. We walked a 20 minute “shortcut” to the church, and arrived 1 ½ hours early. In fact, we actually finished just before the scheduled starting time of 2pm – bet that’s never happened in Liberia before! The church was immensely grateful for our inaugural gifts and it will be exciting to see how the Lord uses those funds to help educate rising generations.

Back at the EGH we ate lunch (I avoided the strange, green, slimy pork dish and just had rice and plantains). After lunch, I left with Paulcy , Kowah and the other church men to pick up the newly-finished bookstore sign and painting Paulcy had bought from a painter named Francis. The roads to the sign printer were the worst I’ve ever experienced, with giant mud pits (10 feet wide and 2 feet deep in places) dotted with partially-submerged rocks threatening to stall or mangle our van at every turn. On the way, we had to drop off Moses to negotiate the release of his cousin from jail – a bit unexpected, but exciting! Once we arrived at Francis’ house, a beautiful sign waited for us along with Paulcy’s finished oil painting of a boy and deer drinking from a stream. We settled up with the painter and left.

We stopped at the bookstore again to drop off the sign and admired all the progress – new roof, cemented porch, plumbing, and drainage. We planned to go straight back, but pulled over to watch that remarkable soccer team of war victim amputees practice. Kowah told us they have just qualified for the special World Cup to be held soon in Turkey. My camera was dead by then, so I’ll have to get pics from Paulcy.

When we finally got back to EGH, a guest preacher and former Liberian congressman, Josiah Pah, was meeting with Dr. Allison. When he left, we enjoyed a tasty chicken and fries dinner with fresh pineapple, all the while being serenaded by the worst–acted soap opera ever (Kelly was watching the African Network in the living area). After dinner, I gave Dr. Allison some more Airborne to fight off a fresh cold, copied important parts of the minutes from the last business meeting and last Monday’s minutes as well.

When my scribal duties were done, I retired to my room, called Linds, took a shower, and just got off the phone with her. I find it strange that I can have such a burden for the needs here while at the same time be so home-sick. I don’t get it, but can’t deny the rather helpless feeling. G’night Liberia!

3.11.07

Sunday 3/11
(11:15pm)

Whew – what a Sunday! The morning began as expected and I had plenty of time to finish my Sunday School preparation. We drove to church (with Michael Miller who was saved the other night) arriving 5 minutes late – surprise, we were the first ones there! By quarter after 10, enough adults were there to start at least with some singing. I started preaching around 10:30 and the place was packed a half hour later when I closed in prayer.

Our team led the morning worship service American-style, as requested by the church folks, who are really trying to embrace a more traditional, less charismatic worship style. At the end of the announcements, during which Dr. Allison presented the big card and cash gift and Paulcy presented a gift from the youth at Malvern, some of the FPMC leaders requested to speak. Kowah thanked us profusely and had a large number of church people come up to present us with gifts of appreciation. I had been video-taping all of this, so I handed the camera off when my turn came to be officially robed in a green tribal tunic – I must say, I look pretty fine as an African. James McCole then presented each of us with a wrapped gift for our wives. A surprise was the newspaper editor, saved only three days ago, who showed up to make a presentation. He gave Dr. Allison a book full of photos from the Crusade as well as the negatives, after which he publicly declared his desire to join the church – quite a transformation.

I led the singing for the service and Dr. Allison preached an encouraging message on Christ’s Kingly office. Near the end of his message, rain began to fall and by the time he closed in prayer, the light shower was a torrential downpour. Due to the deluge, nobody left before Communion, so as soon as Paulcy and George finished preparing the elements, Dr. Allison attempted to begin the service. However, the rain had swamped the generator, leaving him without amplification, and the sideways downpour was forcing a chaotic jumble of people in the middle of the pavilion, all trying to avoid the open outside walls. Dr. Allison could barely be heard yelling over the rain as he read from I Corinthians, until Teddy rushed in, soaking wet, with the church’s megaphone – it was a huge help. The rest of the Communion service was a very special time for the church, which cannot observe that sacrament normally due to a lack of an official minister. The rain finally let up near the end of the service.

Having chosen church leadership positions last night, our team had to interview those people after the Lord’s Supper and prior to a business meeting to announce those decisions. We actually started that meeting around 2:30 (note: we last ate around 8am) and again, I did the laborious work of a minutes secretary. I don’t ever want to be Clerk of Presbytery! The congregation seemed happy enough with the new leadership structure, and those announcements were followed by several interviews of pastors from interested churches.

After the meeting, Dr. Allison was approached for counseling by two consecutive ladies, one of whom is the Roman Catholic daughter of the church landlord. She had attended one of the Crusade services and Dr. Allison had the joy of leading her to Christ this afternoon. For the next half hour she was engrossed in reading “A New Beginning.” Meanwhile, I had a good talk with Evangelist Jones and Big Boy, who came to church as promised. Jones is excited about Big Boy and offered to let him come by the new bookstore anytime so Jones can read the Bible to him and disciple him. God has done remarkable things this week!

We finally arrived back at the EGH with 5 church guests (Kowah, Yassah, Moses, Jones, Monger), and ate lunch and dinner as one meal around 6pm. Unfortunately, everything, though tasty, was also too spicy and I had to resort to a Clif bar in my room. After dinner, we showed them the Liberia DVD from last year – it’s amazing how much more I can now recognize and sympathize with them now that I’ve seen it all first hand. When they left shortly before 9pm, we all relaxed for a while, talked, and figured out plans for our last few days – not sure they’ll be much more relaxing than our last two weeks…oh well, that is why we are here.

It’s getting late, I still want a shower, and am hoping Linds will call me back, so I’m signing out – just three more nights to write…

3.10.07

Saturday 3/10
(midnight)

Today was a wonderful day, but exhausting. The morning went smoothly – Kowah and his wife, Venus, joined us for breakfast after they successfully found a pair of jeans and a shirt for Dr. Allison (both were way too big, but that’s better than too small). Dr. Allison managed to get them on and keep them on, and we headed out around 9:15am.

We dropped George off at the bookstore where lots of progress has been made. The rest of us then drove back to the main junction where we followed a packed van of baptismal candidates and church folks to Elwa Beach. This beach is definitely the prettiest place I’ve seen in Liberia so far. In tropical beach fashion, it has palm trees, silky white sand, beautiful black-rock outcroppings, and massive breakers. If it weren’t Liberia, I’m sure it would be a popular vacation spot.

We got out (the church people had been singing the whole way) and sang a song while some of the men went to examine the small lagoon/tidal pool. Much to Dr. Allison’s relief, it was too shallow, so Dr. Allison decided we’d have to brave the ocean surf. He chose a spot a little ways down from four boys who were enjoying a skinny-dip and went out to test the depth and undertow while we lined up the baptismal candidates at the water’s edge. Dr. Allison slogged back out, read Scripture, gave a brief message, and then has us sing “Are You Washed in the Blood?”

With Paulcy and me documenting it all on camera, Dr. Allison and Moses waded out to stomach-level water. Forkpa was the first of fourteen to be baptized. One by one they walked out with the help of Moses. Dr. Allison then yelled the baptismal confession over the roaring surf and had them affirm it. He, with Moses’ assistance, then baptized the candidates. Most of these people have not only never been in the ocean, they are deathly afraid of it, so it was quite a statement of faith and commitment to Christ for them to even go out. Not even taking the natural grandeur of the setting into account, it was a truly beautiful and moving service.

We had to drop some folks off at the church when we left, so we also stopped at the bookstore. There we found George, working shirtless like the African men – couldn’t blame him in the blazing midday sun. We were concerned for his health in that heat, but he insisted that he keep working, so we headed back to the EGH for lunch.
Lunch didn’t arrive until 1:30pm, but spicy BBQ chicken, roasted potatoes, and delicious homemade pastries were worth the wait. We had to get back to the church for a business meeting and we picked George up on the way – the shelves are built, the walls painted, the porch wall laid, and awning posts set in place – it looks really good!

At the church, all the visiting ministers had gathered with the FPMC for our business meeting. Dr. Allison moderated and I volunteered to be clerk – my hand still hurts. It was a lively meeting at times and revealed many new items for prayer and consideration. We heard reports from our mission church and several other interested ministries and when it was all said and done 3 ½ hours later, I had taken nine pages of furiously scribbled notes!

Afterwards, we had a few of the men join us for dinner (a pretty decent effort at classic mac and cheese). When they left, I finished inscribing baptismal certificates with names and dates, and we talked church business until almost 11:30pm when we all agreed we were too tired to be functional.

Back in my room I tried to shower before Linds’ promised call, but the water is shut off. Oh well, I got to talk to Linds and Asher and all are doing well – I want to see them badly and my note from them today, complete with finger-painting, almost drew tears. Well it’s late and I am teaching Sunday School tomorrow – good night.

3.9.07

Friday 3/9
(11:30pm)

Two great days in a row – Praise God! I woke up feeling weird this morning, and spent quite a while in the bathroom. Some Immodium and dehydrations salts seem to be a reliable cure, and worked their magic again prior to my teaching.

On the way to the church we dropped Paulcy and George off at the bookstore property where men were already hard at work. At the church, we opened by teaching Psalm 27 and “How Sweet and Awful is the Place.” By the time I started into Chapter 10 of the BCO, a nice breeze had made its contribution to an already pleasantly cool, cloudy day. We took a break around 11:30am only to have a light shower hurry everyone back under cover. I finished Chapter 11 and therefore my final teaching responsibility before noon – hooray! I handed the mike over to Dr. Allison and he handled a variety of worship and mission-church related questions until almost 1:45pm.

With our teaching finished, we drove back to the bookstore, where one bookshelf was finished, the walls were primed, and a porch foundation was dug – impressive progress and encouraging for our Tuesday deadline. We had instructed the various ministers to lead a church-wide prayer meeting in the afternoon, so we could get back to the EGH and prepare for the evening.

George and Paulcy actually left right after lunch – George to the bookstore and Paulcy to visit Kowah’s home. During lunch (and just prior to a call from Linds regarding the tire situation), we had decided that I would again teach Sunday School, so I spent some time on my message before enjoying an almost hour-long nap.

When our companions returned, they brought Rufus and Kowah with them and when we departed for the crusade ground we packed in James (the barber) and Mike Miller (an unsaved local teen who lives nearby and whom George befriended last year). Again the crowd at the crusade began small, but grew especially once the preaching started. A generator problem caused the lights on the pulpit to flicker distractingly during Dr. Allison’s intro, and once it regulated, the lit podium (and Dr. Allison) became a magnet for swarms of flying ants. He, his Bible, his notes and the podium were practically covered with the insects , which had emerged because of the earlier rain. So, Moses went up on stage and waved the bugs off for the rest of the service. And what a service! Dr. Allison preached from Matthew 27 on the observers of Christ’s crucifixion – very powerful. When he finished, I led the invitation with two songs and prayer. A number of new converts from last evening walked up simply to get literature (“A New Beginning” and Bible Study pamphlets) that had been promised them, but also maybe 8 or 10 new people came up seeking Christ. After the invitation and newspaper photo shoot (with on of the newly converted reporters), Paulcy and I struck up conversation with 4 guys who had all come forward but dispersed before talking with a pastor. One of them was Mike Miller and after a wonderful presentation of the Gospel by Paulcy, he asked if he could be saved. I led all four guys in prayer and then turned to a teenager named Big Boy who didn’t seem to quite be grasping everything. After maybe 10 minutes of individual attention, he came to assurance of the salvation he had just prayed for. He can’t read and he has lost both parents, but wants to live for God and promised to come to church on Sunday – Hallelujah for the cross! Both Mike and Big Boy are considering baptism as well.

When we finally returned to the EGH, Rufus, Kowah and Moses shared a delicious pita meal with us. Moses finally informed us that the baptismal is not a pool, tank, well, or stream – all of which had been previously implied – but in his own words, a “lagoon.” Apparently there is a popular tidal pool that leads out to the Atlantic – Dr. Allison is understandably a little nervous and wishing he had some waders. Paulcy bought him some used shoes to ruin and I gave Kowah money to buy Dr. Allison cheap pants and a shirt tomorrow morning before he picks us up.

Before we all retired for the night, we watched CNN’s coverage of Dr. Paisley and the DUP’s victory in Northern Ireland – pretty cool to have a Presbytery Moderator become the first Chief Minister of a country. After a few Cote D’Or chocolate pieces we all said goodnight. I took my habitual cold shower and now am off to sleep on what I discovered is the firmer of the two foam beds in my room. I am hoping for some nice dreams about Linds and the boys – I miss them like crazy.

3.8.07

Thursday 3/8
(midnight)

Today was a great day! Breakfast in fact, was the low point: tuna salad sandwiches – go figure. We got to the church on time and began the session by teaching the people Psalms 23a and 46 which they learned very quickly. They are very musical people without any technical music skills. The teaching went particularly well this morning. I taught Chapter 9 on Presbytery meetings and had Dr. Allison give a practical run-through of a Presbytery meeting since he has been the moderator before. After the break, he had to interview baptism candidates, so I finished the chapter and took questions. All of them were pretty easy until Kowah asked for a detailed explanation of our style of conservative worship as opposed to the contemporary/tribal music style of the Charismatics. Somehow the Spirit gave me the ability to explain our worship standards more rationally and Biblically that I thought I was capable of – amazing grace!

We left and picked George up at the lumber yard (working on shelves with a terrific guy from the church named Evangelist Jones). With Kowah, we went straight downtown to finalize/amend the church’s registration papers. We had already informed the church that we would be absent from the scheduled afternoon session and that they should hold a prayer meeting for the crusade.

We got home after 3pm, ate a phenomenal roast beef, potatoes, gravy and bundt cake lunch, after which Paulcy, Kowah and George left to pick up the finished lumber for the shop. Dr. Allison and I stayed back and had sweaty naps (our EGH generator was broken and not fixed until this evening).

When the men returned, Michael (caretaker) hopped into the van with us to go to the crusade. On the way there, we saw something remarkable I had noticed the day before. On a large dirt soccer field, a large crowd had gathered to watch a match consisting entirely of one-legged players on crutches. Kowah told us that it is a team of civil-war victims practicing for the Special World Cup to be held soon in Turkey.

The crusade meeting seemed to start out rather discouragingly – few people and shallow worship songs. However, by 7pm at least 125 people were there, not counting the cars and pedestrians hanging around the perimeter. Dr. Allison preached one of the best evangelistic messages I’ve ever heard – it dealt with the men on the three crosses and their positions before both man and God. When he finished, a young lady came forward and I was able to help her with some issues of Christian growth. While I was talking to her, close to 30 people gathered in front of the podium, with about 20 of them seeking salvation. The pastors and our men dealt with them, sometimes in whole groups, and most of these made sincere professions of faith. Additionally, a Muslim cabdriver who had heard something from last night while driving by, who had been under conviction all day, and who therefore came to the service, was saved. So were the radio and newspaper journalists who were there to report on the crusade! I’ve never been in a meeting more obviously blessed by God’s power in salvation – Amen! God is good – all the time! We’re praying for another great meeting tomorrow night.

Back at the EGH, Michael joined us for dinner along with Kelly and we had some very animated discussion of church offerings as used in Charismatic circles – no one won.

I had a nice, long chat with Linds, who finally had a disaster-free day and then took a shower only to find I have no towel. A wash cloth and a fan worked fine however, in this heat. That’s all for tonight, folks.

3.7.07

Wednesday 3/7
(12:30am)

Whew…long day! I slept terribly last night with alternating back and abdominal pain. I woke up to a torrential downpour and a nasty set of diarrhea episodes. The highlight of the day’s commencement was the French crepe and jam breakfast. The upset stomach continued until after I ate so I loaded a water bottle with dehydration salts and took some Immodium.

Our van was again on time (Hooray, Kowah!) and we started our morning session right at 10:00am. Dr. Allison opened the meeting with a terrific explanation of the multiple indexes in the hymnal, after which we taught them three hymns set to “Finlandia” – “Be Still My Soul,” “We Rest on Thee,” and family-themed song. I then got through most of Chapter 5, covering the Session.

After a break, I had Dr. Allison walk the class through how he moderates a Session and Committee meeting. After about 15 minutes of questions, I returned to the podium. However, I had been teaching only 5 minutes when I had to quickly hand the mike off and rush to the bathroom, for which I had to wait because it was locked. That “item of business” being finished, I concluded Chapter 5 and took questions.

Still feeling weak, hot and tired, I joined our men for lunch, but chose rice over the suspicious-smelling fish dish. I got a 30 minute nap before we headed back.

Back at the church, I zipped through Chapters 6-8 with constant opportunity for questions and no more stomach episodes. During this session, George finalized some plans for leasing a building on the main road as a Christian Bookstore.

Though our supper was ready when we got back “home,” we decided to wait until after the crusade to eat. We arrived at the Telecom Park around 6:30pm and Dr. Allison preached a powerful message from Luke 7 – it’s amazing how the devil tries to silence the Gospel. Dr. Allison was sick to his stomach and half-way through the message, the speaker-system’s dedicated generator died and was never restarted successfully. Finally, after Dr. Allison had resorted to 15 minutes of hoarse yelling, someone got the microphone system hooked up to the generator for the lights and for the last point.

Dr. Allison gave an invitation and I was able to speak with Forkpa, one of the teenagers who was to be baptized – I think we had a very profitable talk.

Some of the men returned with us for dinner and conversation. After they left, I was whupped – still am, so sweet dreams…

3.6.07

Tuesday 3/6
(10:45pm)

Today was the first day without any major surprises or changes – quite uneventful. Breakfast was the same as always and for the first time in a week, the van arrived early to pick us up! Our new van, new-ish Chevy Astro is great – no shocks, but comfy seats, lots of room, and cold front and rear AC.

Before the lecture time, we reviewed “Revive Us Again” and learned “My Hope is in the Lord.” Since I used all my time yesterday lecturing, I started the first morning session with open-mike questions. Although Dr. Allison was there to help, all the initial questions were ones I was thankfully able to competently answer from Scripture and the BCO. It wasn’t until he left for some business that I had to deal with some sticky style-of-worship issues. After a break around 11:15am, I covered the BCO section on Deacons and reopened the floor to questions. A new guest fired off several questions on modern tongues-speaking. Thankfully, Dr. Allison was back and I handed the mike over to him as the resident expert on all things Charismatic. It really became a very thorough lesson on the sign gifts and seemed to be well-received – even by those ministers who obviously disagree with our position.

We ended at 12:30pm, drove by two possible properties for the bookstore, and headed back for lunch – a strange, but tasty beef fat and gravy concoction over – you guessed it – rice. I snoozed for about 10 minutes before we returned to the church close to 3:00pm.

Although there were a few questions, I was able to spend most of my time lecturing through Chapters 3 and 4, especially emphasizing church discipline. While I was teaching, Dr. Allison and Paulcy interviewed baptism candidates. Several cannot read, so our info on baptism packet is useless to them. However, all seem to evidence a credible testimony of salvation.

We got home before 5pm, and George McConnell and I wandered out to find some pineapple and take pictures. When we returned we waited for a guest to join us for dinner, but finally started eating our chicken and fries around 7pm when he didn’t arrive.

At 9pm, the State radio station, 99.5 FM, was supposed to air a special report: our crusade. However, 9:00pm came and went with only a bizarre chaotic Assemblies of God service from Shelby, NC being aired in that slot – apparently we will get extra coverage the next couple of days.

With no real plans for the evening, we had lots of time to talk, call our families (Linds had a rough day with flat tire, etc.) and make fun of the severly-short haircut George received this morning – he can’t complain though: the barber made a housecall for a grand total of $1.50 US!

Well, I have cooled off in the shower, flipped longingly through my family photo book, and stressed a little about my teaching for tomorrow – good night.

3.5.07

Monday 3/5
(11:30pm)

Days full of ups and downs are proving to be the norm for this trip. The day started with the same breakfast as everyday – (egg and onion fritatta, slippery sausages, fried plaintains) plus really sweet cornbread biscuits. Our ride didn’t arrive until nearly 10:30am (9am was expected) so were were an hour late for my teaching session.

The session seemed very successful. We began by teaching them the simple tune to “Revive Us Again.” They sang it beautifully and loudly – I’ll try a new one, plus that one tomorrow. I lectured from 11:00-12:30, getting through most of Chapter 2 with the large diverse group that was listening. Actually I went too long because I didn’t leave any time for questions – not sure if Liberian time is rubbing off on me or if I am just a good Free Presbyterian…

During my session, Dr. Allison and Paulcy had an interview with the newspaper – apparently it went well enough that the reporter wants to visit our services.

After a good lunch of BBQ Bony (local ocean fish) and spicy green rice, we headed to the church for a congregational meeting. Dr. Allison explained to the church the results of this weekend’s events and it was a well-handled, albeit awkward and sad meeting.

Afterwards, our van had disappeared, so we waited around playing with the children until it returned (our driver had moseyed over to Gardnerville for some unknown reason). Sister Yassa and her former JW son, Henry, climbed in with us and we drove to Star Radio (FM 104) downtown for a “special feature” interview. They have a very nice (and cool) high rise office with great views and a tiny but well-equipped recording studio. Veronica, the interviewer, spoke for almost 25 minutes with Dr. Allison – can’t wait to hear it tomorrow! LTBS Radio may buy airtime as well.

We went from there back to the EGH where we had, in my humble opinion, the best meal yet – beef meatballs in a spicy red sauce over those sweet cornbread biscuits – good stuff. The fresh pineapple didn’t hurt either. After dinner, Kowah arrived and the seven of us discussed some church issues – perhaps creating more questions for us than it answered. Once again, we’re leaving it all in God’s hands.

Our friends left around 9pm and I got to call Lindsey who is doing incredibly well especially considering the week she just had. I miss all 3 of them immensely. After the call, I shivered through a cold shower and am now ready for bed.

3.4.07

Sunday 3/4
(midnight)

I can’t believe we are already in our second week of the trip! Today was a great Lord’s Day. This morning was uneventful prior to the services. We arrived for Sunday School at 10am, though in typical Liberian fashion, we didn’t begin until 15 or 20 after the hour. I taught the adult Sunday School from Ephesians 2:1-10 and the people seemed to hang on every word – what an encouraging answer to prayer!

The morning service included a song service that was almost all hymns, 4 public “intercessory” prayers with everyone praying out loud at once (chaotic to say the least) and a public testimony by sister Yassah’s son who was saved out of the Jehovah’s Witness cult last year at our services. Dr. Allison preached on “Christ, our Head” from Colossians 2, and the people seemed to respond very well.

Our van was supposedly fixed but being cleaned, so the little yellow spud got us home. We thought the van was going to bring the church leaders to eat with us, so we held off lunch. In the meantime, the other guest here, Kelly, a Nigerian civil engineer, introduced Paulcy, George, and me to a German friend who stopped by. A humanitarian aid worker doing accounting for a women’s rights organization, the woman was excited to be greeted “auf Deutsch.” My Deutsch lasted about 3 pitiful sentences and we reverted to English. After casual introductory conversation, Paulcy asked her if she attended church. She reluctantly named some “Rose and Cross” belief and Paulcy pressed her for details. Her explanation of that faith’s “everyone is heading toward God” dogma led him into one of the most clear, logical presentations of the Gospel from start to finish I’ve ever heard in my experience of personal evangelism. For at least 1 ½ hours we (mostly Paulcy) discussed the Gospel in contrast to her beliefs. Paulcy didn’t pull any punches in inviting her to faith in Christ right there and she finally rejected it, though she had listened and sincerely admitted many of our points from Scripture. She is clearly blind and needs God to do a regenerating work in her heart.

Around 4pm, our Liberian men finally arrived with two vans and we headed back into the sweltering heat to go to the service.

Since the church usually has no evening service, the evening service was lightly attended, but those who came paid close attention Dr. Allison’s convicting message on the necessity of communion with Christ from the narrative of Mary and Martha in Luke.

By this time, it had occurred to met that we had been repeating the same 7 or 8 hymns at all services. After the service, I asked Kowah who could read music. “No one can,” was his matter-of-fact reply. So the only way they could learn the hymns (and they really wanted to!) is to hear and to memorize the tunes. So, I am going to try to teach them at least 3 or 4 more by the time we leave.

Also after the service, Dr. Allison was able to counsel with a single mother who had been at all the services. They conversed for about ½ an hour and when he emerged, he announced that she had received Christ – Hallelujah!

We returned to the EGH with several men and had a great dinner of BBQ chicken, spaghetti, and red sauce followed by citrus cakes. George accidentally drank some local water, so we hope to see him in the morning. After the men left, having decided on a newer, better van charter, our group stayed up and told funny stories about topics ranging from FPC presbytery meetings to bungee jumping. Tomorrow’s going to be a long, hard day so I am off to get some rest – g’night!

3.3.07

Saturday 3/3
(6:30pm) Part 1

Today has been the strangest day of our trip so far, if not in my entire, brief ministry experience. Last night while I was writing here, Dr. Allison, Paulcy, and George were meeting with Pastor McCole, Kowah, and Rufus. The purpose was to air out some conflict that had caused Rufus to leave the church months ago. Though I can’t elaborate on the details, the meeting revealed a serious sin problem and cover-up that spans the last 20 years. They stopped the meeting after 1am and all the men slept here until our Liberian guests could get a taxi this morning.

Over breakfast, our men brought me up to speed and as the resident BCO-expert, I had to give a personal evaluation of the problem from the BCO perspective. The situation appears at face-value to be a heartbreaking disaster for this little Liberian church, and the problem will likely become painfully public over the next few days. We could determine no good resolution, so after we returned from our first teaching session (mostly Dr. Allison’s intro lecture and my personal testimony at the end), Dr. Allison spent the better part of an hour on the phone getting advice. That call seemed to confirm our fears and even pointed us to some more far reaching, and if realized, tragic implications of the matter.

That conversation confirmed that our purpose for the trip had been altered, so when we returned to the church (after a weird rice/chicken/beef/fish/scary crustacean in peanut butter sauce lunch, of which I ate only rice), I gave a very general, but well-received lecture on the scriptural, philosophical and logical grounds for the BCO rather than starting into the lectures. Afterwards, Dr. Allison and I presented the visiting Pastors with a gift of several Barrett and Cairns books – they were thrilled! When we were ready to leave, a street vendor caught my eye and I vastly overpaid for two souvenirs for Asher and Isaiah – I didn’t have the drive to haggle after such a rough day.

Our tiny, open-windowed, mid-80’s Nissan Sunny hatchback taxi (the Renault is still in the shop) got us home in one piece, and now we’re waiting for the men affected most closely by the scandal to arrive for dinner and a meeting no one is anticipating with any glee.

Saturday 3/3
(midnight) Part 2

Tonight was both heartbreaking and encouraging at the same time. Our elders held a meeting at which Dr. Allison had to present a tragic, but necessary verdict from the Presbytery – it was one of the most sobering hours of my life and perhaps the most vivid illustration of the far-reaching consequences of sin.

Notwithstanding the tragedy of the situation, everyone involved, including the disciplined man, demonstrated humble, graceful spirits and to a man, all are still committed to the work of the FPC. The congregation knows nothing yet and will have to wait until Monday. Our team will be teaching/preaching, and I’m scheduled to teach the adult Sunday School class.

While doing some grocery shopping earlier, Dr. Allison approached me about my burden for Liberia. I’ve prayed for wisdom and clarity on this issue and I had to tell him that while I still have a burden for the work here, it is not, at this point an undeniable burden as a place of God’s long-term calling. That confuses even me, but Dr. Allison seemed to understand my sentiments.

I’m concerned for the FPMC of Liberia – I love the people and I’m praying that they love the Lord and each other enough to continue on with the ministry despite the apparent set back. They are God’s people and God can and must help them in so many ways we cannot. Well, it’s tomorrow already – I need sleep.

3.2.07

Friday 3/2
(11:30pm)

Another crazy day – I have a feeling I will never be bored on this trip. I started today shortly after 7am and ate the same breakfast as yesterday – what I wouldn’t give for a little cheese on those eggs! The men from the church weren’t arriving until 9am, so I leisurely dressed and enjoyed a lengthy Bible reading. Shortly before 9am, George McConnell offered to show me the beach. I didn’t realize our guesthouse is only about 100 yards away. The beach was empty except for two runners – no children and no sign of any sea life dead or alive except for a fishing boat about 500 yards out. We tromped around in our dress clothes, marveling at the gutted buildings that must have once afforded stunning views of the beautiful shore and massive breakers. When we headed back, the church men had not arrived (“Liberian time” becomes a pattern here) so I poked around the property hunting red-headed lizards and wild fowl with my camera. The men finally arrived at 9:45am to drive us 30 minutes to our 10:00am service. The van was having some transmission trouble that was a harbinger of things to come. We arrived at the FP Mission Church of Liberia decked out in dress shirts and ties that were already very damp with sweat (except for Paulcy who remembered to pack his very airy-looking Liberian robes). The service was already in progress with praise and worship music and we were ushered into a classroom where a reporter/producer from 99.5 FM State Radio was present to interview all of us for special broadcast spots purchased in anticipation of the crusade – mine was thankfully the shortest.

Finally, around 11:15am we entered the service and were given seats behind the pulpit and table on the platform. The pavilion was full (75-100?) and the people sang several hymns beautifully, led by Pastor McCole. Kowah introduced us kindly, if effusively, and after several more hymns and Bible readings, Dr. Allison took the pulpit around 11:40am. (note: We had a 1pm appointment in Monrovia with the lawyer so we planned to leave the church at 12 noon – so much for American-style scheduling!) He preached a clear, simple, powerful message on II Corinthians 6:14-7:1 and had an encouraging response at the invitation given by Pastor McCole. However, the 8 or 9 people who came forward received no counseling to our knowledge after the service – something we will need to address before the evangelistic crusade.

We rushed to Monrovia, already late, and dropped Paulcy off at Cellcom Communications on the way to buy a Liberian cell phone for our use ($29 US). About 1:30pm we made it up to the law office. The attorney, who also happens to be a minister, had drawn up the most Biblical, distinctively Free Presbyterian Articles of Incorporation imaginable, without any input from us – remarkable! Before we could sign and submit the papers, we found out the church had to have a registered PO Box, so Pastors Allison and McCole embarked on that venture while George and I had our driver take us to find Paulcy. We found him, with new cell phone, at a roadside shoeshine vendor and he paid $1 US for the 2 of us to get our dress shoes professionally shined as well – a first for me, and much overdo for my shoes.

Back at the law firm it was decided that Pastor Allison, Paulcy, Pastor McCole and I (yes, that is correct) would be the original incorporators – so we all signed several copies – and I am now a signer to Liberian corporation. Hopefully all the paperwork should be through the government by next Friday.

We finally finished downtown about 4pm (we missed our own business meeting at the church, but incorporation is pretty crucial) and got back to the guesthouse for a very late lunch that was the best we’ve had yet – meatballs in brown sauce over brown rice with a funky baked bean concoction. Throw in the moist yellow cake and it was a feast.

I got in a quick nap before Paulcy, McCole and I hopped back in the van (and the 95-100% humidity) to try to finally pick up the package at the airport DHL office. On the way, we dropped off a Book of Church Order to have 15 copies made for tomorrow’s class. Halfway to Roberts Int’l, in front of the renovated national soccer stadium, our van died and wouldn’t restart. Paulcy took the wheel and McCole, our driver, and I pushed until it restarted. Having restarted though, the engine started overheating. We pulled into the stadium, popped the hood to release a billowing cloud of smoke, and took pictures while our driver ran to get water. He brought back a bottle and poured the contents in, only to have the apparently annoyed French radiator start spitting scalding streams in our direction. However, we got the fan started and about 30 minutes later the temp had dropped enough to restart. We scrapped all errand plans and drove straight back to the guest house. Apparently tomorrow we will all be cozily snuggled in a VW golf hatchback – what larks – while our air-conditioned van is repaired.

Around 7:30pm several leaders from the church arrived to discuss some issues with Dr. Allison, but we all had a nice chicken dinner first (I had PB & J since we had extra guests – they rarely get chicken) Once they started their meeting, I holed up with my notes and BCO to prepare for tomorrow’s introductory session. I’m a little nervous about teaching a crowd almost totally unacquainted with the subject matter – I definitely need more prayer! After a brief break to talk with Moses and Michael in the common room, I’m off to a cold shower and hopefully, sleep.

3.1.07

Thursday 3/1
(midnight)

My first full day in Liberia was a whirlwind. After a breakfast of a cold eggs and onion frittata and fried plantains, Pastor McCole and Moses arrived at the guesthouse. We all rode in the van up the road to a remarkably well-stocked grocery. We purchased 4 cases (48 liters) of Volvic water, OJ, soft drinks, and towels (Dr. Allison’s room was void of towels). We dropped our purchases off at the guesthouse, said goodbye to a 10-inch red headed lizard on the retaining wall (afraid of my camera, so no pics), and set off for downtown with touristy hats, cameras, and 1-liter water bottles in tow.

We dropped Pastor McCole off at DHL to pick up the books Dr. Allison sent, and Paulcy (our usual and exceptionally skilled driver by now) navigated us to the US Embassy. Dr. Allison and I were directed by friendly guards up a long road skirting the massive embassy compound. Having checked in, we filled out internet registration forms in a refreshingly air-conditioned room and walked back to meet our van. (No pics of our embassy or UN buildings – didn’t figure violating the “No Photography” signs was worth being shot!)
Pastor McCole was waiting empty-handed when we returned to pick him up –DHL demanded a form from us that neither he nor we could produce – so we proceeded to try and find a Christian bookstore someone had spotted and the Rx the team used last year. Getting there and anywhere else the rest of the day was no less than a white-knucle adventure. The street lines mean nothing, horns substitute for brakes, 6 inches or less is considered ample following/passing/cutting-in distance, teenagers are constantly confronting every car window with items for sale, and most of the tiny (think 1980’s Corolla) taxis carry a minimum of 8 passengers; vans – 25-35). We had dropped Paulcy off at a bank, and in the meantime our original driver managed to clip only one pedestrian with his mirror – no injuries, thankfully. We found the pharmacy and bookstore, poked around a little, and headed back to where Paulcy was standing with $3,000 cash – Liberian ($50 US).

Paulcy drove us back to the Guest House and the Liberian men left us to enjoy an odd dish of boiled spinach, chicken, fish and beef – we think. I had time to nap before the men returned and actually overslept, despite the heat and humidity.
When I made it out to the common room, our team, the Liberian men, and two Liberians I didn’t know were deep in conversation. Turns out the new pair had read of our visit on Dr. John McKnight’s website and had gotten details from him of our whereabouts. They were Pentecostal but wanted to get info on us – we’ll see what happens.

After they left (around 4:15pm), we finally got in contact with Chester’s brother-in-law, a Monrovia lawyer who agreed to help the church with incorporation. 15 minutes of scary traffic and one more futile DHL stop later, we met him on a street corner and followed him up a partially rebuilt high rise to his fan-cooled office. He and a paralegal/minister walked us through the initial constitution-writing and payments, and tomorrow we are to return to sign the initial incorporation docs. We left downtown and Paulcy skillfully hurled us through rush hour traffic to the Paynesville site of the FPC Mission Church of Liberia. A group of at least 40 met us and an MC backed by rock-blaring speakers formally greeted and introduced us to the crowd which had gathered in the open-sided pavilion. McCole gave us a tour of the various enclosed rooms including a possible location for the bookstore. They still need a generator of their own (they’re renting one for our visit), but really have a very adequate facility.

When we were finished there, McCole, Moses, Koah and Munger crammed into our tiny Renault with our team and the driver. We let him drive back in the dark – oops! We missed killing several pedestrians by mere inches and I don’t think we will let him drive anymore after dark, if at all.

Back at the Guest House, we shared a great spaghetti dinner plus lunch leftovers with our friends – they have very little food themselves and it was heartbreaking to watch their attempts to refrain their hungry eagerness. An extra and surprising guest was Rufus. After dinner he and Dr. Allison discussed quietly discussed some problems at the church while Paulcy, George McConnell and I talked through some details of the crusade with the others. The men presented us with several matters that demand discernment and prayer. They all left around 10pm, leaving Paulcy, Dr. Allison and me to discuss those issues plus the upcoming events of tomorrow and Saturday – already the schedule is packed.

The heat, humidity, odd food, and general fatigue are catching up with me, as is a feeling of homesickness for my family I have never experienced. Asher talked to me on the phone tonight and put me in tears. Both Isaiah and Asher are now very sick and my heart is torn between two vastly separated continents. I need rest, but I need grace more. I’m going to fall asleep praying for both.

Monrovia, Liberia: 2.28.07

Wednesday 2/28
(midnight)

The day actually started last night when Paulcy assured me that we wouldn’t need an alarm to be up for 7am breakfast and departure for the airport. At 7 sharp, LouLou sharp knocking at the door woke us both from a sound. We piled into our clothes with no shower and rushed downstairs to a delightful European breakfast of breads and cheeses. The kids were heading out for school as we finished and we said goodbye to what must be the most hospitable family in Brussels while snapping final pictures. We loaded into both cars and drove (or rather, crawled) through morning rush hour to the airport. Once there, we miraculously breezed through check-in, including the infamous SN Brussels luggage weight-check (the Lord must have extracted 30 lbs. from our luggage during the drive), and security.

Our flight, a massive Airbus A330 (8 seats across, 2 aisles) was packed and after such outstanding seats on previous flights, I suppose I deserved to get the only window seat on the plane with no window at all – oh well. There is always the overnight trip back, and who wants to see the French Alps, Spanish Pyrenees, Rock of Gibraltar, or the Sahara desert anyways? While we were slightly delayed taking off because of a water leak while we were taxiing, I was suddenly convulsed with violent nausea and cold sweats. Maybe it was the stale air, lack of window, or just fatigue, but it less than fun. Paulcy snagged an attendant who brought me water while I valiantly held off waves of nausea – thankfully, I was successful and felt fine the rest of the day.

With no windows, I was able to see outside only by reclining my seat and peering out of the corner of my eye out the window behind me – these contortions provided me a nice view of the wing and a sliver of sky. I did manage brief glimpses of the Pyrenees, The Rock/Straits of Gibalter, the Moroccan coast and the ominously vast Sahara. In Dakar, Senegal, we stopped to unload a few passengers and to refuel. We weren’t permitted to disembark so my pics of Dakar are limited to ones shot through a kind gentleman’s window. Someone apparently did leave without proper permission and we were delayed again for an hour.

During the delay I met some interesting folks. A couple in front of us were wearing shirts printed with Laurens, SC on the sleeve – they were from a Baptist church and coming to do Humanitarian work. Behind me was a 30-ish couple from South Bend, IN (Yes, Notre Dame fans, but we’ll forgive that). They were friends with a Leichty girl from Bern whose father had worked at Smith Brothers where my grandpa worked for years – small world! Their business in Liberia is to adopt 3 children: 5 yrs, 2½ yrs, and 9 months respectively. They are believers and will certainly need grace, beginning with their flights home, no doubt.

Anyway, we finally landed in Monrovia after dark. We were the only arriving flight, but customs and baggage was indescribable mayhem. A security guard pulled us over and in hushed tones straight out of a spy movie, confirmed we were FPC and instructed us where to have our passports checked, how to collect our bags and then to wait for him. We did so, after which he took money from Dr. Allison which he then slipped to every customs official we passed, resulting in a complete lack of any bag searches – Amen. He led us outside (a steamy 78 degrees) where Pastor McCole, Pastor Kowah and about 35 others greeted us in a bright yellow “Free Presbyterian Mission Church of Liberia” t-shirts. They sang, yelped, hugged, kissed, played maracas, and proudly held up a large Welcome banner – it was heartwarming and humbling at the same time.

We loaded into a tiny minivan (our luggage traveled in a separate car) and our apparently very inexperienced driver steered us to Monrovia while we made phone calls. My spirits were instantly dampened when Linds told me of Isaiah’s worsened, congested condition – but God knows and is with them too, not just with me.

We arrived at the guesthouse where several of the men and our inn-keeper, Michael, greeted us again. We formed a circle and Pastor Kowah led out a stirring African song of thanks to God. After prayer, the men left and we ate a very nice, albeit cold (we arrived late), dinner of chicken and fries. We then retired to our simple, but well-appointed rooms, unpacked, and here I am at 1am still awake – and ready to sleep. I’ll need it tomorrow. Goodnight, Liberia!

Brussels, Belgium: 2.27.07

Tuesday 2/27
8am (BRU)

As I write this first entry in my first ever travel journal, I’m nearly finished with a very pleasant overnight flight to Brussels from New York – I can’t believe the 1st day of the trip is over.

Our little team of Dr. Mark Allison, Paulcy Cangé and I met yesterday afternoon at PHL, where I had to say, hug, and kiss a tearful “Goodbye” to Linds and baby Isaiah. We breezed (well, Dr. Allison and I, not Paulcy, who brought liquids) through security, had a surprise run-in with a delayed, yet jovial Dr. Kevin Bauder, and enjoyed a very brief hop to JFK on a tiny twin prop puddle-jumper. There we had a long enough layover to eat a leisurely dinner and make phone calls (my third to Linds whom I was already missing profoundly). We then boarded a Boeing 767 and due to a partially empty flight, I chose a exit seat (no heroic aspirations, just the insatiable desire for more leg room). A surprisingly tasty dinner was served and I fell asleep shortly afterwards. And I just woke up – Good morning, Brussels!

Tuesday 2/27
10pm (BRU)

Today was an unforgettable experience. Having landed in BRU we deplaned and were transported by moving sidewalk down a mile-long corridor to the baggage claim. There we met George McConnell and then ordered drinks while we waited for Paulcy’s brother LouLou to arrive. He did, with his wife, Sonia, and we drove their two small cars, packed full, around the outskirts of the city to the small but quaint town where LouLou has a gorgeous home. They shared a delicious breakfast of bread, cheese, and tea with us before Paulcy loaded our team back into the VW to see Brussels.

Brussels is amazing – the ancient architecture, history-drenched sculptures, bustling cafes run by pushy waiters, and extravagant luxury shops combined to make a wonderful afternoon. We enjoyed hot chocolate at Paulcy’s favorite café in the Grand-Place, “The Golden Boat,” right next door to a house owned by novelist Victor Hugo. Before we left the old city, Paulcy bought me a hot, genuine Belgian waffle – why hasn’t anyone in the States figured out how to make those things?! Oh, did I mention that all this fun was accompanied by a steady, cold rain which is apparently the norm this time of year? It couldn’t stop us. We slogged around the cobblestone streets taking photos, hurtled through traffic snarls in the VW, and finally ended at the little Baptist Church where Paulcy grew up. The Pastor, Benny, just lost his mother, and Paulcy stopped to offer his condolences. While there, we met Paulcy’s childhood friend, Jean, and invited him to dinner at the Cangé’s. After we filled up the Jetta (US$50 for 14 gallons), we returned home, napped, and sat down to an unbelievably fine fondue and self-grill dinner. The variety of meats and cheeses was like no meal I have ever eaten. After dinner, we chatted until Anushka, Florio, Deborah, and LouLou started playing music on guitar, flute, violin and piano – they’re good, and it was fun. We finished the evening with tea and dessert and said goodnight. I am sharing a room with Paulcy and hope to wake refreshed and ready for my first sight of Liberia – Good night!